Euljiro Nogari Alley is a popular Seoul drinking street known for grilled dried pollack, draft beer, and outdoor tables packed into narrow alleys. It is a good place to experience a casual after-work food and drinking culture in central Seoul.
What to Eat and Drink
Nogari (dried young pollack)
The alley’s signature snack is grilled dried young pollack. It is usually served whole or in pieces with a spicy red pepper paste dip. The fish is chewy, savory, and easy to share with beer.
Draft beer
Cold draft beer is the classic pairing. Some pubs also serve fried chicken, other dried seafood, and simple Korean pub snacks.
Golbaengi-muchim (seasoned sea snails)
Some nearby pubs serve golbaengi, mixed with vegetables and spicy seasoning. It is often eaten with thin noodles and makes a substantial shared dish.
Price Range and Ordering
Prices vary by pub, and older published prices should not be treated as current menus. A historical Korea Tourism Organization listing gave examples of 500 ml draft beer at ₩3,500 and nogari at ₩1,000, but check the menu at the pub before ordering.
- How many people? Nogari and beer are easy for one person to order, but the alley is especially suited to groups of two or more sharing snacks.
- Minimum order: There is no confirmed alley-wide minimum. Each pub sets its own food or drink ordering rules. Ask before taking a seat, especially at outdoor tables.
- How to eat nogari: Break or tear the grilled fish into bite-sized pieces, dip it in the red pepper paste, and enjoy it with beer. Check for bones as you eat.
- Tip: If you want a full meal rather than snacks, check whether the pub serves larger dishes such as golbaengi-muchim or fried food.
How the Alley Began
Euljiro was historically a busy downtown district with offices, workshops, and shops selling tools and industrial supplies. In 1980, Eulji OB Bear opened a pub serving dried pollack with beer. Similar pubs followed, attracting workers and nearby office employees looking for an affordable place to relax after work.
The alley became known for its simple combination of grilled nogari and beer. It grew especially popular during the economic crisis of the late 1990s, when its inexpensive snacks and informal atmosphere appealed to a wider crowd. The area was designated a Seoul Future Heritage site in 2015.
Today, the alley is known for its old downtown buildings, small pubs, and outdoor tables. It is busiest in the evening, particularly on pleasant-weather days and weekends.
How to Get There
By Subway — Recommended
Euljiro 3-ga Station (을지로3가역), Seoul Subway Lines 2 and 3
- Exit 3: A practical route toward the alley. The Korea Tourism Organization describes turning into the alley after leaving Exit 3 on Line 3.
- Exit 4: Also useful for the Nogari Alley area. Seoul’s official tourism guide lists Exit 4 and a distance of approximately 86 m to the alley destination.
- Walking time: Around 1–3 minutes from the station exits to the nearby alley entrance, depending on the exit and the pub you choose. The alley itself extends through several small streets, so allow extra walking time to reach a particular venue.
For navigation, search “을지로 노가리골목” or the Korean name of your chosen pub in a local map app. A pub’s entrance may be on a side street rather than directly beside the station exit.
By Bus
Bus routes and stop names can change, and a single bus stop does not serve every part of the alley. I could not confirm a dependable current route list specifically for the alley entrance, so it is safer not to rely on an unverified bus number.
To travel by bus:
- Search “을지로3가역” or “을지로3가” in a live Korean transit app.
- Choose a bus stop near Euljiro 3-ga Station or your pub’s Korean address.
- Check the walking route from the bus stop to the pub before boarding.
If you are unfamiliar with Seoul buses, the subway is the simpler option because Euljiro 3-ga Station is close to the alley.
Practical Tips
- Visit in the evening to experience the alley’s lively pub atmosphere.
- Outdoor seating can fill up quickly, especially on weekends and in good weather.
- Operating hours, closing days, prices, and ordering rules vary by pub.
- The narrow alley can become crowded with tables and pedestrians. Keep entrances and walking paths clear.
Check current opening hours, closing days, menu prices, and transport information before visiting.