Nakwon-dong, near Jongno 3-ga in central Seoul, is known for restaurants serving agujjim (아구찜), a Korean dish of monkfish braised with bean sprouts and a spicy seasoning. The area is a convenient stop for visitors exploring Insadong, Ikseon-dong, and the historic streets around Jongno.
Agujjim is a hearty shared meal, with a combination of tender fish, crunchy vegetables, and a savory, spicy sauce.
What to Eat
Agujjim — Spicy Braised Monkfish
Agujjim is the signature dish. Monkfish is steamed or braised with bean sprouts, often with water parsley (minari), and seasoned with a red chili-based sauce. The fish has a firm, tender texture, while the vegetables add a crisp contrast.
- Typical price: around ₩50,000 for a small plate at a traditional restaurant; medium and large portions cost more.
- Minimum order: many restaurants serve agu jjim by plate size rather than individual portions. A small plate is commonly shared by two or more people, but minimum orders vary.
- How to eat: take a piece of fish and some bean sprouts together, then enjoy them with the spicy sauce. Use rice to balance the strong seasoning. Some restaurants offer extra rice or a fried-rice finish, but check whether it is available and costs extra.
Other Dishes to Look For
- Haemuljjim (해물찜): a spicy braised seafood dish with a mix of seafood and vegetables
- Agu-tang (아귀탕): monkfish soup, often a milder alternative to the spicy braised dish
- Haemultang (해물탕): a seafood soup with a variety of shellfish and other seafood
Menu availability depends on the restaurant.
How to Enjoy Agujjim
- Share the plate: agu jjim is generally served in a large dish for the table.
- Combine fish and vegetables: take monkfish with bean sprouts or minari for a balanced bite.
- Adjust the spice: the sauce can be quite hot. If you prefer mild food, ask the restaurant whether it can prepare a less spicy version before ordering.
- Eat with rice: steamed rice helps balance the spicy, savory sauce and makes the meal more filling.
If you are dining alone, ask whether a smaller portion or individual menu is available. A small plate may still be too much for one person.
The Story and Character of Nakwon-dong Agujjim
Nakwon-dong sits in a long-established central Seoul district where traditional restaurants, markets, and small businesses have served local diners for decades. Agujjim became associated with the neighborhood through restaurants specializing in monkfish and seafood dishes.
The area’s food character is built around substantial, shared plates rather than quick individual snacks. Agujjim is especially suited to a group meal: a large dish arrives at the table, and diners share fish and vegetables with rice.
Some restaurants in the area have operated for many decades. One long-running Nakwon-dong agu jjim restaurant dates back to 1967, reflecting the neighborhood’s established seafood dining culture. It is safer to describe the area as a traditional restaurant district than to claim that agu jjim itself originated here.
Getting There: Subway and Bus
For most visitors, Jongno 3-ga Station (종로3가역) is the most convenient subway station for the Nakwon-dong agu jjim area.
By subway: Jongno 3-ga Station
- Station: Jongno 3-ga (종로3가역)
- Lines: Seoul Subway Lines 1, 3, and 5
- Exit: Exit 5
- Walking distance: approximately 150 meters to a long-established agu jjim restaurant at 436 Samil-daero
- Walking time: about 2–3 minutes to that restaurant; other restaurants in the area may be farther
From Exit 5: head toward Samil-daero (삼일대로) and walk along the main road toward Nakwon-dong. The restaurant area is close to the station, but use the exact restaurant name in your map app to find the correct entrance.
For a general visit to the Nakwon-dong restaurant area, Jongno 3-ga is a practical starting point because it is served by three subway lines.
By subway: Anguk Station
- Station: Anguk (안국역)
- Line: Seoul Subway Line 3
- Walking distance: a longer walk to Nakwon-dong than from Jongno 3-ga
- Walking time: allow roughly 10–15 minutes, depending on the restaurant
From Anguk Station, walk toward the Jongno 3-ga and Nakwon-dong area, following the main streets toward Samil-daero. This can be convenient if you are already visiting Insadong, but Jongno 3-ga is generally the simpler station for the restaurant district.
By bus
For bus travel, search for stops around Jongno 3-ga (종로3가) or Nakwon-dong (낙원동).
- Getting off near Jongno 3-ga: walk toward Samil-daero and Nakwon-dong. The distance depends on which side of the road your bus uses.
- Getting off near Nakwon-dong: follow the local street signs or your map app to the specific agu jjim restaurant.
Bus route numbers and stop locations can change. Check a live Seoul transit app before boarding and confirm the direction of travel. Avoid relying on a route number without checking its current stop.
Travel tip: If you are new to Seoul, take Line 1, 3, or 5 to Jongno 3-ga Station and use Exit 5 as your starting point. Search for the exact restaurant before leaving the station so you can follow the final walking route.
Check current opening hours, prices, and minimum orders before visiting.